Dominical | Victoria's Secret Blog

No Costa Rican adventure can be complete without indulging in the tranquillity of its sun-kissed Pacific Coast beaches. Gosh, I sound like a travel agent! But it was really nice to unwind on the golden sands of Punta Leona, on the Gulf of Nicoya, for a couple of days. Cocktail, book, ice-cream: bliss.

After some proper R&R, we took in two of the most renowned parks in the country. Manuel Antonio, located just a little further down the Pacific Coast, is a natural gem renowned for its breath-taking beauty and abundant wildlife. As you venture into this coastal rainforest, you’re greeted by the park’s most endearing residents – the playful capuchin monkeys. These mischievous creatures are well-known for their entertaining antics, constantly attempting to sneak snacks from visitors or run away with hats and sunglasses. We sat for a while, watching them groom each other and nimbly reach fruit from high branches. Along with the monkeys, the park is also home to three-toed sloths, large green iguanas, and a myriad of bird species. On our particular visit, we also saw some less-striking (but equally impressive) residents: a Broadwing Falcon, a well-camouflaged nightjar, zigzag spiders, brown basilisks and a colony of tent-making bats.

Manuel Antonio was not my favourite though. It’s incredibly popular and so had far more people than we’d been used to seeing. It was also unbearably hot – the sweat poured off us all day, and dehydration threatened. Its crystal-clear waters were, however, glorious. I wish we’d have more time to swim and enjoy the immaculate beaches.

Which brings us neatly and naturally to the question: What was your favourite park then? Thanks for asking. Well, Corcovado of course. Untamed wilderness at its absolute finest. Corcovado is the crown jewel of Costa Rica’s national park system. Accessible only by boat, this remote treasure offers an unrivalled immersion into pristine rainforests and secluded beaches. It is simple stunning. I felt like Indiana Jones…or Bear Grylls…or some do-gooder in Jurassic Park trying to save the diplodocus (but inevitably releasing the raptors to chaotic yet 5-star entertainment effect).

One of the most captivating sights in Corcovado was the presence of vibrant scarlet macaws. With their stunning red, blue, and yellow plumage, these awesome birds added a frequent burst of colour to the lush greenery. I watched in awe as they soared through the canopy or gathered in pairs, displaying their affection with their loud calls and tomfoolery. The macaws’ presence is testament to the park’s successful conservation efforts. And if my habitat was as clean and carefully protected as this, I’d be pretty happy to stay too!

Whilst exploring the dense foliage, creeping under vines and scrambling over branches like Lara Croft (ooh yes, I’ll settle on Lara), I was fortunate enough to spot again the enigmatic sloths high in the trees. It feels like sloths are somewhat the mammal du jour, with children everywhere clutching soft-toy versions and their cute faces adorning t-shirts, mugs and a variety of other merch. But I want to make clear they were mine before they became fashionable! With their slow and deliberate movements, sloths have a unique charm, and speak to the very core of my being. 🙂

After a late lunch of plantain, pineapple, papaya, melon, chicken stew and the ubiquitous gallo pinto, we bid a sad farewell to Corcovado and made our way back on the speedboat. But the surprises continued! Gliding through the sparkling waters, we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by a pod of dolphins. The playful and intelligent creatures danced in the boat’s wake, and we even got to see an infant leaping in the air.

Back from Peninsula de Osa, where the park is located, we spent a day in hippy Dominical, a surfing village with excellent cocktail bars. I was worn out though! After a swim, a piña colada (or three) and a really delicious hibiscus mezcal concoction, it was time for an early night. I slept very very well.

Our last stop was San Gerardo de Dota, nestled in the Talamanca Mountain Range and Los Quetzales National Park. This is one of the lesser-visited parts of the country, but is known for being one of the best places to spot the elusive Resplendent Quetzal (again, part of its name rather than a gushing adjective).

The Resplendent Quetzal, considered one of the most beautiful birds in the world, had a storied place in ancient Mesoamerican mythology and remains a symbol of freedom and beauty. With its iridescent green feathers, crimson chest, and striking tail feathers, the quetzal is a sight to behold and a dream for any bird enthusiast. Some twitchers spend hundreds – thousands! – of pounds on guides to take them through the forest in an attempt to spot the bird. We were fortunate enough to have a rare encounter with these stunning creatures without even really trying.

We were actually on a walk to a local waterfall when we witnessed the remarkable event: a male and female quetzal meticulously building a nest together. The male’s vivid colours shimmered in the dappled sunlight as he diligently searched for the perfect twigs and nesting materials, while the female attended to her house-building duties. Observing this intimate moment left us both with a sense of awe…and me with c.200 photos to edit!

Right, I think I’ve done Costa Rica justice. From the ethereal beauty of Monteverde Cloud Forest, the verdant waterways of Tortuguero, the excitement of Sarapiqui’s rapids…elusive sloths, pristine beaches, volcanoes, dolphins, toucans, and memorable sunsets – this Costa Rican odyssey was an unforgettable journey that will forever stay etched in my heart.

There’ll be some extra posts no doubt focused on specific animals, but for now (and for always): Pura Vida!