Monthly Archives: July 2023

Resplendent Ending

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No Costa Rican adventure can be complete without indulging in the tranquillity of its sun-kissed Pacific Coast beaches. Gosh, I sound like a travel agent!  But it was really nice to unwind on the golden sands of Punta Leona, on the Gulf of Nicoya, for a couple of days. Cocktail, book, ice-cream: bliss.

After some proper R&R, we took in two of the most renowned parks in the country. Manuel Antonio, located just a little further down the Pacific Coast, is a natural gem renowned for its breath-taking beauty and abundant wildlife. As you venture into this coastal rainforest, you’re greeted by the park’s most endearing residents – the playful capuchin monkeys. These mischievous creatures are well-known for their entertaining antics, constantly attempting to sneak snacks from visitors or run away with hats and sunglasses. We sat for a while, watching them groom each other and nimbly reach fruit from high branches. Along with the monkeys, the park is also home to three-toed sloths, large green iguanas, and a myriad of bird species. On our particular visit, we also saw some less-striking (but equally impressive) residents: a Broadwing Falcon, a well-camouflaged nightjar, zigzag spiders, brown basilisks and a colony of tent-making bats.

Manuel Antonio was not my favourite though. It’s incredibly popular and so had far more people than we’d been used to seeing. It was also unbearably hot – the sweat poured off us all day, and dehydration threatened. Its crystal-clear waters were, however, glorious. I wish we’d have more time to swim and enjoy the immaculate beaches.

Which brings us neatly and naturally to the question: What was your favourite park then? Thanks for asking. Well, Corcovado of course. Untamed wilderness at its absolute finest. Corcovado is the crown jewel of Costa Rica’s national park system. Accessible only by boat, this remote treasure offers an unrivalled immersion into pristine rainforests and secluded beaches. It is simple stunning. I felt like Indiana Jones…or Bear Grylls…or some do-gooder in Jurassic Park trying to save the diplodocus (but inevitably releasing the raptors to chaotic yet 5-star entertainment effect).

One of the most captivating sights in Corcovado was the presence of vibrant scarlet macaws. With their stunning red, blue, and yellow plumage, these awesome birds added a frequent burst of colour to the lush greenery. I watched in awe as they soared through the canopy or gathered in pairs, displaying their affection with their loud calls and tomfoolery. The macaws’ presence is testament to the park’s successful conservation efforts. And if my habitat was as clean and carefully protected as this, I’d be pretty happy to stay too!

Whilst exploring the dense foliage, creeping under vines and scrambling over branches like Lara Croft (ooh yes, I’ll settle on Lara), I was fortunate enough to spot again the enigmatic sloths high in the trees. It feels like sloths are somewhat the mammal du jour, with children everywhere clutching soft-toy versions and their cute faces adorning t-shirts, mugs and a variety of other merch. But I want to make clear they were mine before they became fashionable! With their slow and deliberate movements, sloths have a unique charm, and speak to the very core of my being. 🙂

After a late lunch of plantain, pineapple, papaya, melon, chicken stew and the ubiquitous gallo pinto, we bid a sad farewell to Corcovado and made our way back on the speedboat. But the surprises continued! Gliding through the sparkling waters, we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by a pod of dolphins. The playful and intelligent creatures danced in the boat’s wake, and we even got to see an infant leaping in the air.

Back from Peninsula de Osa, where the park is located, we spent a day in hippy Dominical, a surfing village with excellent cocktail bars. I was worn out though! After a swim, a piña colada (or three) and a really delicious hibiscus mezcal concoction, it was time for an early night. I slept very very well.

Our last stop was San Gerardo de Dota, nestled in the Talamanca Mountain Range and Los Quetzales National Park. This is one of the lesser-visited parts of the country, but is known for being one of the best places to spot the elusive Resplendent Quetzal (again, part of its name rather than a gushing adjective).

The Resplendent Quetzal, considered one of the most beautiful birds in the world, had a storied place in ancient Mesoamerican mythology and remains a symbol of freedom and beauty. With its iridescent green feathers, crimson chest, and striking tail feathers, the quetzal is a sight to behold and a dream for any bird enthusiast. Some twitchers spend hundreds – thousands! – of pounds on guides to take them through the forest in an attempt to spot the bird. We were fortunate enough to have a rare encounter with these stunning creatures without even really trying.

We were actually on a walk to a local waterfall when we witnessed the remarkable event: a male and female quetzal meticulously building a nest together. The male’s vivid colours shimmered in the dappled sunlight as he diligently searched for the perfect twigs and nesting materials, while the female attended to her house-building duties. Observing this intimate moment left us both with a sense of awe…and me with c.200 photos to edit!

Right, I think I’ve done Costa Rica justice. From the ethereal beauty of Monteverde Cloud Forest, the verdant waterways of Tortuguero, the excitement of Sarapiqui’s rapids…elusive sloths, pristine beaches, volcanoes, dolphins, toucans, and memorable sunsets – this Costa Rican odyssey was an unforgettable journey that will forever stay etched in my heart.

There’ll be some extra posts no doubt focused on specific animals, but for now (and for always): Pura Vida!

Punto Leona

Basilisk

Corcovado jungle

Golden Orb-Weaver

Lesson’s Motmot

Gulf of Nicoya

Three-Toed Sloth

Peninsula de Osa

Rainbow-Billed Toucan

Manuel Antonio

San Gerardo de Dota

Capuchin monkeys

Jesus Christ Lizard

Avian Wonderland

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A short one today! Situated on the border of the Central and South Pacific regions of Costa Rica, Carara National Park is a unique reserve that’s a Mecca for avian enthusiasts, boasting a spectacular variety of bird species.

Boarding a small boat to navigate the waterways, I hadn’t appreciated the park is also home to the impressive American crocodiles. One notable – and colossal – croc named Captain Hook stood out due to (yep, you guessed it) the loss of one of its limbs. I felt a tad apprehensive as we passed slowly by the sleeping giant. But the egrets perched on his back seemed pretty non-plussed. Witnessing these ancient reptiles in their natural habitat was quite special.

My eyes were quickly drawn to the skies though, where a symphony of winged wonders greeted us. Perched atop trees and soaring through the skies, we spotted beautiful Ospreys, also known as fish hawks, exhibiting their exceptional fishing skills. With keen eyesight, they hovered above the water before swooping down with talons outstretched to catch their slippery prey. Anhingas, white ibis, mangrove swallows, a variety of egrets and herons, sandpipers, whimbrels and kingfishers were all spotted.

As we continued our exploration, the sky above Carara became a mesmerizing spectacle. Hundreds of Magnificent Frigatebirds (that’s their name, not an effusive adjective) circled overhead, creating a breath-taking aerial ballet. These large seabirds, known for their distinctive forked tails and striking red throat pouches, captivated us with their acrobatic displays. And they shared the coastal vistas with dozens of brown pelicans.

One of the most striking sightings was the elegant Roseate Spoonbill, a captivating wading bird with its pink plumage and distinctively spoon-shaped bill. This majestic bird stood gracefully in the shallow waters, sweeping its bill from side to side in search of its aquatic prey. As avid fans of the board game Wingspan (yes, I’m revealing my not-so-well-hidden dorky side), Paul and I were particularly excited by this one!

We also spotted vultures soaring high above the treetops and picking at bones in the swallows. These efficient scavengers play a crucial role in the ecosystem by cleaning up carrion, making them an essential part of Carara’s natural balance.

Whilst the scenery itself is not as verdant and stunning as some of the other national parks we visited on our trip, I was really pleased we’d visited Carara. The diversity of the bird species is testament to the park’s commitment to preserving its rich biodiversity.

Leatherback marine turtle

Great Egret

Ringed Kingfisher

Captain Hook

Brown Pelicans

Amazon Kingfisher

Neotropic Cormorant

Soaring to New Heights

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Let’s dive back into our central American adventure! (Or should I say fly back into…)

We’d arrived in Monteverde, I believe, when I’d last paused our story. Nestled in the heart of the Tilarán Mountain Range, Monteverde National Park is often rhapsodically referred to as the ultimate haven for nature enthusiasts. But this is not unwarranted hyperbole. Its cloud forest reserve boasts incredible biodiversity and it is stunningly beautiful.

Cloud forests are typically found at higher elevations, usually between 1,000 and 2,500 meters above sea level. The combination of high altitude and the cooling effect of the clouds results in lower temperatures – to be honest, a welcome relief after the cloying heat of the previous week! I was hoping we’d also get fewer mossie bites (though this didn’t prove to be the case). Due to the constant cloud cover, these types of forest experience really high levels of precipitation, often in the form of fog or mist, even during the dry season. The clouds trap moisture, which contributes to the high humidity levels, and this moisture provides a continuous source of water for plants, animals, and numerous micro-organisms. As a result, Monteverde’s forest is home to an incredibly diverse range of plant species, adapted to the moist and cooler conditions. Epiphytes, such as mosses, ferns, and orchids, are particularly common. These grow on the branches and trunks of trees, thriving in the limited sunlight near the forest canopy. The presence of epiphytes adds to the ethereal beauty of the cloud forest, creating a magical atmosphere.

Wandering through the misty trails and treetop walkways provides a surreal perspective of the lush canopy and a chance to spot unique bird species and mammals such as the tapir and jaguar. I say ‘chance’ because we didn’t actually see any of these. Our time in the cloud forest was actually our most animal-lite part of the whole trip. No matter. Monteverde truly does have a mystical sense to it, where the union of clouds and forest created an otherworldly aura, leaving you feeling like you’ve stepped into a real-life fairy tale.

One of the highlights of our visit to the area was however – somewhat surprisingly – exploring Jardin de Mariposas, the local butterfly garden. This enchanting sanctuary showcases the beauty and diversity of Costa Rica’s butterflies across four different habitats. Stepping into the mini-reserve, you’re immediately surrounded by a flurry of colour, as over 30 species of butterflies flit gracefully around you.

Our very punky and incredibly knowledgeable guide, Emmy, steered us around the centre, pointing out rare specimens and even grabbing them effortlessly from the air to show us up close. Gently, I should add! She grabbed them very gently. The cattleheart, with its delicate pink spots, danced through the air alongside the ethereal glasswing, whose transparent wings make them almost invisible against the foliage. The striking malachite butterflies, adorned with vivid green and black patterns, add a burst of colour. And then, there are the famous blue morpho butterflies, shimmering like sapphires as they glide through the air. Their radiant blue wings reflect the sunlight, captivating everyone’s attention. I’d seen some of these species before, but never in such numbers!

There’s an array of other intriguing creatures in the sanctuary too. From scorpions to millipedes, stick insects to jewel beetles, and even a friendly cockroach named Tiny that I held in my hands, the garden offers a fascinating (and educational) experience about some of the smallest creatures of the rainforest.

After that gentle, calming experience, I craved another dose of adrenaline. [Disclaimer: I have never “craved a dose of adrenaline” in my life and should stop trying to make myself sound cool on this website!]. We did however fight our nerves to go zip-lining high in the forest. Given it’s the first time I’ve ever tried zip-lining, I’m not qualified to judge, but we were repeatedly told (by those with far more experience) that there’s no better place to experience this than in the cloud forest’s canopy. Zip-lining through the foliage, suspended thousands of feet above the forest floor, was certainly exhilarating. Gliding from platform to platform, I felt like a bird (in the words of Nelly Furtado), getting an up-close view of the vibrant flora below. The rush of the wind against my face, the sheer thrill of the heights, and the captivating vistas made this an unforgettable highlight of the whole trip.

We began our journey to the treetops in an open-air gondola that gradually ascended to the breath-taking height of 1,750 meters above sea level. As we ascended, the landscape unfolded before us, revealing panoramic views across to the majestic Arenal volcano on one side and the glistening waters of the Pacific coast on the other. The sight was nothing short of awe-inspiring, and it set the stage for the adrenaline-pumping adventure that lay ahead. [Disclaimer: no, actually I stand by “adrenaline-pumping adventure”. It was. That’s justified. And I didn’t insinuate that’s a common occurrence for me.]

As we reached the first platform, I must admit I was a bit nervous. The idea of soaring through the forest on a thin cable seemed daunting at first. But with the expert guidance of the Sky Adventures team, my fears soon turned into excitement. With a leap of faith, I embarked on the first zip-line. A tiny scream, and then….freedom! And the unique sensation of gliding on top of the world.

One by one, we soared through a series of six zip-lines, each one offering a different perspective of the cloud forest. The rush and the breathtaking scenery combined to create an experience I will cherish forever.

As if the zip-lining wasn’t enough to get our hearts pounding, at the end of the course there was an unexpected twist – a 5-meter free-fall bungee rope. With my heart pounding, I mustered the courage to take the plunge, and the sensation of free-falling before the bungee rope caught me was an incredible thrill. I’d definitely recommend the experience to anyone – and would happily endorse Sky Adventures, who made us feel safe and secure the whole way round!

…Oh, and we saw a very cute white-nosed coati in the car park afterwards. So this part of the trip wasn’t totally bereft of mammals!